Technical Guide · Specification
How to Read Fabric Construction
A woven construction like 40×40/120×60 reads as warp count × weft count / ends per inch × picks per inch. So: 40s yarn in the warp, 40s in the weft, 120 ends and 60 picks per inch. The figures before the slash are yarn counts; the figures after are thread density. It tells you how the fabric is built — but not, on its own, how it will look, feel or perform.
Reading the notation
| Part | Value | Means |
|---|---|---|
| Warp count | 40 | 40s yarn running lengthwise |
| Weft count | 40 | 40s yarn running across |
| Ends per inch | 120 | Warp threads per inch (density) |
| Picks per inch | 60 | Weft threads per inch (density) |
Buyers sometimes reverse warp and weft, or treat all four numbers as yarn counts. The rule to hold: counts before the slash, density after it.
What the number does not tell you
The biggest misunderstanding is that a construction is a complete specification. It isn't. 40×40/120×60 does not, by itself, tell you:
- Exact finished GSM, or the finished and usable width
- Composition, weave, and whether the yarn is carded, combed or compact
- Yarn quality, sizing level, and finished hand feel
- Shrinkage, colourfastness, dyeing method and printing suitability
- Whether the fabric will match your reference in look or performance
And "higher" isn't automatically "better." A higher density can add coverage and body, but it also changes hand, weight and processing behaviour. The density must suit the product, not just be large.
The one thing to remember
A construction describes how the fabric is built, not completely how the finished fabric will look, feel or perform. It should narrow a development — never replace physical approval. Always support it with composition, weave, target GSM, finished width, finish, end use and an approved physical reference.
Buyer checklist
Before you send us a construction, know where the numbers came from — a lab analysis, a supplier spec sheet, a competitor quote, a physical fabric, an estimate, or just a market name. Then confirm on the finished cloth:
- Finished GSM and finished width
- Weave and composition
- Shrinkage and hand feel
- Colour and print performance
- An approved physical sample, plus any test requirements
Why two identical constructions differ
Two suppliers can both quote 40×40/120×60 and still deliver different fabrics — because of cotton quality and staple length, yarn evenness and strength (CSP), carded vs combed yarn, actual vs nominal loom density, crimp, loom type, sizing, grey and finished width, the desizing/scouring/bleaching route, mercerisation, sanforisation, calendering, softener or resin, dyeing method, even moisture content at testing. Same notation, different cloth.
Related knowledge
See cotton poplin for these constructions in context, fabric GSM explained, and how to prepare a sourcing brief.
Frequently asked questions
Which number is the yarn count and which is the thread count?
Before the slash is yarn count (warp × weft); after the slash is thread density (ends × picks per inch).
Can you tell me the GSM from the construction?
Not exactly. Construction narrows it, but density, crimp, weave, width and finishing all affect final weight. GSM should be confirmed on the finished fabric.
Does a higher thread count mean a better fabric?
Not automatically. Higher density can mean more coverage and body, but also a different hand and weight. It has to suit the end product.
I have a fabric I like but no construction — can you still match it?
Yes. Send a physical cutting; we can match appearance and performance and work back to a suitable construction, which is often better than chasing a number.
On typical values: this guide explains how to read and use construction notation. Exact outcomes vary by fibre, construction, finishing route and supplier, and should be confirmed on an approved physical sample.
Send us the numbers — or the fabric
Give us a construction to work to, or a physical reference to match. We'll tell you which approach fits your product and what to confirm before bulk.